We are up and packed early because Chuck wants to make sure we hit Lava Falls Rapid before the river level drops, exposing more rocks.
After lunch, SAM and Chuck switch to the motor rig. It is a long and sleepy afternoon. Even the canyon looks worn down here.
We camp at Pumpkin Springs where the river curves forming a little inlet. There is a large beach which rises sharply into a huge sand dune. But on the river side a rock cliff forms a series of steps and holes. The have a floor of clean sand and sometimes a bush or tree has taken hold. We choose a campsite right among the holey rocks. This is a large camp site, but there are not very many nice spots to lay one's sleeping bag. Most people, including SAM, set up on the dunes.
The Can is set up on a ledge overlooking the river. When I'm there, a strong gust of wind comes down river blasting a wave of sand over my head.
SAM helps with dinner again: linguini with clam sauce. We have cobbler for dessert, I eat very little dinner and have three helpings of dessert. After dinner there is a very nice sunset, but in the opposite direction, upriver, huge clouds are building. The wind gets stronger and there is a lot of lightning. We wonder if we are going to need our tents. Everytime we try to lie down, the wind blows sand on top of our sleeping bags. I move out to the rock ledge and am very comfortable there. I like this Holey Camp a lot. To commemorate, I finally begin one of the books AJM brought: Holes.
This campsite has easy access to the warm Pumpkin Springs. From the water, the orange tinted Travertine rock forms a huge bowl that looks like a pumpkin bowl. The water is only skin temperature and there is a smelly algae growing in it. (I think it's algae--some kind of pond scum). Perhaps it is filled with toxic bacteria. As a lover of Japanese warm springs, though, I'd be remiss not to try it. The pool is only knee deep except in one spot where the water bubbles up from the bottom of the pumpkin bowl. It's certainly not high on my list of great hot springs bathing experiences. But for a long time, no one else comes by and I enjoy a pleasant moment of complete solitude, peaceful calm, and quiet--perhaps not so quiet. I decide to tidy up the pool and wash the algae over the edge. I'm too restless to enjoy my peace by sitting still.
AJM takes a break from reading and comes over to look at the springs. We walk back to camp together, looking at the giant block of black stone. (I forget now if it's lava or schist).
